Carmen Xhán-Gracias a Dios Border Crossing

This was our first border crossing on the IBRG CATEX_24 expedition, a small crossing in the most remote corner of Mexico’s southernmost state of Chiapas. We are on the migration route where thousands of Central Americans, Cubans, Africans, Asians, West Indians, Middle Easterners and anybody else interested in joining the stream of refugees headed to Mexico’s northern border with the United States. We were however heading south, not north.

The UK FCO advise against journeys to this area due to Cartel activity involving drugs and trafficking. “Mad dogs and Englishmen” springs to mind.

We first became aware of the heightened security when we inadvertently drove through a Mexican checkpoint 5 KM from the border. After being told off by 2 heavily armed personnel, one in uniform and one not, we were free to head to the border. The border itself was very relaxed and it would be possible just to drive into Guatemala without any checks. In fact, we missed the Mexican immigration post on the way out and had to drive back into Mexico to find it.

Click on Map above for location on Google Maps

Mexican side of the Border

The first thing to note is that it takes time to cross borders here. On the Mexican side we had to go next door to a shop pay 20 pesos for someone to look up our migration from and print it off. Once in receipt of the form which had details of our entry into Mexico, we went next door to have our passports stamped. We were still some distance from the border. As we were there some people came in to show their ID cards, but many just drove past.

The Migration Office – photography was restricted here.
Looking up towards the border.
Mexican Customs
The shop where the Migration documents were printed out.

The Border

Passport stamping complete it was time to cross the border for the second time. The border was well demarcated, with border markers heading up the hill on both sides. Welcome to Guatemala.

Guatemalan side of the Border

After crossing the border for the second time, Guatemalan immigration was relatively straightforward, passports were scanned, no questions were asked and passports were stamped and we were free to enter Guatemala. There was however no customs at this crossing point, something we were unaware of. A crossing point not often used by tourists meant we were requested to drive 90km (about a 3 hour drive) south to the major crossing point at Las Champas (MX) – La Mesilla (GT) in order to get a Temporary Import Permit (TIP) for our hire car. Completely in the wrong direction for us.

This presented a dilemma, an extra 5 hours driving meant we would not reach our hotel until the early hours of the morning. Balance this with the unknown consequences of not having a TIP which may involve fines or at the worst vehicle confiscation. What would you do?

Speed hump and barriers outside the Immigration building.
The border crossing closed at night, and this simple but effective barrier was used to close the road.
A second welcome
Official or unofficial sign? Speed limit advice, and vehicle usage.

First impressions of Guatemala driving into Gracias a Dios was one of culture shock, it looked and felt different, with a greater level of deprivation than that of neighbouring Mexico.

Date of Visit: 22 November 2024

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