MAEX23

This expedition started and finished in Stockholm with the 9 IBRG members (from CZ, DK, NL, UK and USA) meeting at Stockholm Arlanda Airport bright and early on Friday morning. After waiting for the UK participant to clear immigration (which an hour longer than any EU member) we met up and collected the rented mini bus. Unlike other trips which tend to involve several border points of interest, this trip was very focused. Steen Schelde (the new president of IBRG) had arranged the logistics before hand: mini bus hire, ferry crossings and charter boat hire. All for one goal visiting the complex border between Finland and Sweden on the remote Märket Island.

Märket is on the border enthusiasts list of must visit places, but because of its remoteness and the need to charter a boat it can only be done as part of a wider group. The border is complex because in 1885 the Russians built a lighthouse, whether by design or accident they did so on the Swedish side of the border. Even when Finland gained independence in 1917 noting changed. It was not until the 1980’s that the border was reconfigured to “give” the lighthouse back to Finland and to swap land to ensure each country retained the same area whilst at the same time retaining the initial coastal border points. More details of the border are here. The island provides ample opportunities to explore the many border markers, as well as the lighthouse.

As with all the IBRG trips there was lots of discussions, food and drink! This page is an introduction to the trip with individual reports being accessible by clicking on either the photos or the links (in red) either within the text via the menu of the right hand side of the page.

Day One

After leaving the airport the group travelled to Grisslehamn. The port is the Swedish terminal of the Eckerö Linjen ferries which cross to Berghamn on the island of Eckerö in the Åland islands. So after a wonderful lunch in the pouring rain our short stay in Sweden was over as we left for Finland.

On arrival to the Åland islands it was time to travel to our hotel, rest and then hit the town to plan for the highlight of the trip, the journey to Märket Island

Day Two

My visit to Märket Island is one of my very best border experiences. Great and knowledgeable company at a truly magical place. The island is roughly 350 metres long by 150 metres wide, and has an area of about 3.3 hectares. It is the smallest sea island shared by two countries.

The map above shows the complexity of the border and also the numbering does not follow a logical sequence with the border starting at BM#11 and ending at BM#12. On the ground the sequence is BM#11, BM#2, BM#3, BM#4, BM#5, BM#1, BM#6, BM#7. BM#8, BM#9, BM#12 there is no BM#10. There are supplementary arrows that mark the direction of the border too. The island was fascinating with lots to see and do. The complex border and markers, a pene -exclave, the lighthouse and the island itself. Even spotted a grey seal.

The following photos provide a visual summary but please do check out my full report which is here (or click on the photos below). Other excellent IBRG reports: Jannis Deeleman, Piet van Giessen and Harry ten Veen

BM#3 note the arrows that point to the next BM in the sequence

At some point the border was marked by a straight line.

The IBRG MAEX -23 team. L to R Barry Arnold (UK) Jannis Deeleman (NL) Eva Rosova (CZ) Piet van der Giessen (NL) Steen Schelde (DK) Lars Hole (DK), Jonna Nyborg (DK) Jesper Nielsen (DK) and Mike Kaufmann (USA)

IBRG expeditions are full on. After returning to the Åland Islands, there was time for coffee and cake (of course) and a visit to the Fortress of Bomarsun which was the most western defense post for the Russian Empire. However, the fortress was never finished before it was destroyed by French and British forces during the Crimean war in 1854. Interestingly enough, the war is also the reason to why Åland still is a demilitarized zone

As the only UK participant it was interesting to see the handiwork of my forebears. Not only did we destroy the castle we also destroyed the bridge and the site commemorates the first recipients of the Victoria Cross.

The replacement *Bomarsund Bridge* connects Bomarsund with Prästö island

The first 3 Victoria Crosses were awarded in the Battle of Bomarsund 1854. During the battle, Charles Davis Lucas tossed a shell overboard which had landed on board. The shell exploded before it reached water. For saving his ship he was the first man to be awarded the Victoria Cross. John Bythesea and William Johnstone were also received the award for conspicuous gallantry.

Day Three

Never wanting to miss an opportunity to explore border related POI’s the group explored Mariehamn and it’s contested Russian Consulate. The status of the Russian Consulate in Mariehamn is controversial, as with many other Russian buildings abroad there is clear and obvious symbols of protest against the invasion of Ukraine in 2022. Local politicians are requesting the closure of the Consulate describing it as a historical anomaly.

The Russian Consulate in Mariehamn. Note the Ukraine flag in the foreground.

After the Russian Consulate there was time to explore the highlights of Mariehamn including more countries consulates, report here.

An unexpected highlight was a 24/7 Pizza automat. Nice Pizza too.

Pommern, is an iron-hulled sailing ship. It is a four-masted barque that was built in 1903 at the J. Reid & Co shipyard in Glasgow, Scotland.

Soon it was time to travel to Berghamn which is the westernmost ferry harbour of the autonomous Finnish territory Åland, in the Archipelago Sea within the Baltic sea. From this harbour, the ship company Eckerö Linjen has an international ferry link with Grisslehamn in Sweden. The ferry leaves several times a day. The crossing takes little less than 2 hours, crossing a time zone.